In the ‘Queen City of the South,’ life is always a celebration.
By HECTOR M. REYES.
In the Philippine archipelago of 7,100 islands, is there one city that is at once old and new, traditional and modern, laid-back and bustling?
Cebu is it. Touted as the “Queen City of the South,” Cebu is indeed worthy of the title it has earned through the years. Where the vast sea embraces the earth like a mother does her child, history, culture, and traditions go hand in hand with the changes and challenges of modern times, moving forward into the future bearing lessons from the past.
The eclectic mix, the pulsating beat, the thrilling experience are among the many reasons we should run away, hide away, fly away to Cebu.
ENERGY OR LANGUOR
Go either for business or for pleasure. Go fast or slow down. Although Cebu is known for its pristine beaches, perfect for rest and relaxation away from it all, you are never at any point far away from the action. Just a few minutes from the wonderful beach resorts is the city proper, where people are on the go, the streets are busy, and it’s business as usual. In Cebu, the traditional way of life has found common ground with cosmopolitan chic and energy.
Cebu is in Central Visayas, at the heart of the Philippine archipelago. It has a population of three million, whose predominant dialect is Cebuano. Nevertheless, English and Filipino are widely understood and spoken.
Cebu prides itself for the world’s sweetest mangoes. True enough, its mangoes are widely exported all over the world and are sought after even by Filipinos from north to south. Why not? This heart-shaped fruit tastes oh-so-good whether green or yellow, whether as appetizer (with bagoong or shrimp paste), or as dessert. The mango tree, gathered in clusters in the many orchards that dot the Cebu landscape, is an attraction itself. Many a lazy afternoon has been spent in its shade, where romance, like the tree, always bears fruits.
If music is the universal language, then it is fluently spoken in this part of the country, where guitar-making is among the most treasured crafts. Witness how this most versatile of musical instruments is assembled meticulously by hand in Pusok in Lapu-Lapu City.
Go either for business or for pleasure. Go fast or slow down. Although Cebu is known for its pristine beaches, perfect for rest and relaxation away from it all, you are never at any point far away from the action.
DANCING IN THE STREET
But what is Cebu without Sinulog, a riot of a festival celebrated every third Sunday of January? A feast in honor of Señor Santo Niño de Cebu, Sinulog has everyone, residents and visitors, in colorful Mardi-Gras costumes, dancing on the streets to the drumbeat of Pit Senor.
Cebu is old, historically, as evident in its churches and temples and some of the ancestral homes. Who can ever forget Magellan’s cross whose image is a constant on the pages of Philippine history? Basilica Minore del Santo Niño in the city and the churches in Carcar, Boljoon, and Argao are just a few of those that have withstood the ravages of time to bear witness to the unfolding of Cebu’s history, ever rich and ever full of twists and turns and sweet surprises even now.
They say the best way to learn about the past is to visit museums. Cebu is home to many of these treasure troves of history. A newly built museum, Aznar houses a collection of pre-Hispanic artifacts, most of which are from archaeological digs on Camotes Island, where an entire pre-Hispanic village has been unearthed. The Tribal Museum, on the other hand, is a repository of tribal costumes, houseware, and personal effects from various tribes such as the T’boli, Manobos, Bagobos, and Maranaos.
Although Cebu’s old-world charm is unmistakable, modernity lives here, too. Shopping centers like SM City, Ayala Center, and Gaisano Country Mall, all offering local and international finds, have carved their own places in the evolution of this dynamic province. Cebu needs all the openness of an international city. Its name, after all, has become as famous as, if not more famous than Manila in foreign circles, thanks to its Mactan International Airport that now welcomes direct flights from a growing list of key cities around the world.
ISLAND PARADISE
Shangri-La’s Mactan Island Resort is among the best and most well-known beach resorts in Cebu. To crown the many national and international awards it has received in recent years, the resort has been awarded yet another distinction by Time magazine as the “Favorite Resort in Asia.” Tourists, local and foreign, are lured by its beauty and charm. The Cebuanos’ eternal big smile, their hospitality, too, adds to the enchanting experience, bound to last a lifetime, which tourists bring home with them after the briefest of trips to Cebu. Moreover, ShangriLa’s Mactan Island Resort is a staunch supporter of Cebu tourism. In fact, it was with the help of Shangri-La, through its director of communications Neil Rumbaoa, that we planned our trip in pursuit of the very best of the province, in and out of Mactan Island.
On this paradise island, indeed, there is never a dull moment. Life has so much to offer. Sitting on a thirteen-hectare land of lush greenery, landscaped gardens, and a 350-meter white-sand beach, Shangri-La’s Mactan Island Resort has 547 guestrooms and suites, including a presidential suite and the Horizon Resort Club occupying the upper floors of the resort’s Ocean wing. Every room offers breathtaking views of nature, ocean, and outlying islands, looking like sentinels in the vastness. For its well-appointed guestrooms and suites and the variety of dining, entertainment, sports and recreational activities, the resort has won much acclaim from both domestic and international travel organizations since it opened in October 1993.
Recently, Shangri-La’s Mactan Island Resort has completed its $8-million renovation program. The new rooms combine modern design and convenience, fusing Western design elements and world-class Filipino artisanship. Now, the writing and TV desk and chair are all bamboo laminate. The dressing mirror is framed with laminated coconut twigs while the open-weave sheer curtains in earth tones are made from straw-hat fabric. The bed has an oversized woven sea grass headboard and the bedside table is made from coconut twig and eucalyptus veneer.
APPETITE FOR ADVENTURE
Exploring the island resort, there is no way you can miss Cowrie Cove, Shangri-La’s Mactan Island Resort’s premier seafood restaurant. This trendy bar overlooking the beach is best enjoyed when the sun is going down. Relish a refreshing cocktail and the chill-out music against the backdrop of light fading, but not before bursting into a spectrum of colors on the horizon. Offering a variety of fresh seafood and other Asian delicacies, Cowrie Cove affords you the option of dining al fresco under a canopy of stars, caressed gently by the sea breeze, or enjoying your meal within the air-conditioned comforts of its indoor dining areas. Design Bube of Singapore took all of four months to finish this $700,000 renovation. Another exciting addition to open very soon is the Chi Spa Village, a $4-million haven that will cover more than 10,000 square meters and boast of sixteen treatment villas. The coffee shop’s renovation, on the other hand, has been completed and will soon reopen.
Lovers of the outdoors will always find their hands full with the resort’s endless menu of adventures. From a six-hole putting range and Plexi-pave tennis courts to water activities like scuba diving, snorkeling, jet skiing, fishing, windsurfing, and glass bottom boat rides, there are infinite ways to enjoy sand, sea, and sky. You can even soar 1,200 feet above the ground on parasail or take a banca (a motorized boat) to hop from island to island.
Aside from the 350-meter exclusive beach with a bar, tents, pavilions, and a volleyball court, Shangri-La’s Mactan Island Resort has two swimming pools and Health Club that boasts of a gym, exercise equipment, massage services, and spa facilities.
Should you want to give in to your cravings or satisfy your appetite, there are places in the resort in which to indulge. The Lobby Lounge is perfect for tropical cocktails or light snacks. With panoramic views and a lush garden, it is open to serve you all day and all night. The Garden Patio is a garden hideaway where you can have a taste of Asian and Continental specialties. If you want to enjoy a hearty Italian meal with a tranquil view of the gardens and the sea, Paparazzi is the place to go.
After having fun in the water, you can take a moment’s rest at Buko Bar and Grill, an oasis of snacks and cocktails. At sunset, you can grill your own choice cuts of meat and seafood. On Tuesday and Friday nights, a poolside cultural show featuring the Philippines’ regional dances will accompany your food trips, too.
NOCTURNAL LANDSCAPE
The flavors of Asia, from Thai to Indian, all come together at Asiatica. For Cantonese and dim sum indulgence, Shang Palace is the name to remember. Private rooms for twelve or fifty people are available for special occasions. When looking for live music and karaoke, on the other hand, visit this fresh and funky bar aptly called Coco Loco.
On the town, in the city, at nightfall, find yourself in a universe of choices. Going about town in search of good food, good company, and the good life is sure to bring you to the doorstep of the chic, cozy, and modern Tinder Box restaurant, bar, coffee shop, and deli all rolled into one, whose menu offers more than international cuisine, cigars and cigarettes, and wines and spirits. The Tinder Box also has a store at one side that sells imported products from a host of countries around the world. Its owner, Billy Mondonedo, say the inclusion of a cigar lounge, separate from the dining area, is in deference to the wishes of guests who insist on privacy.
A taste of Italy is just a hop, skip, and jump away La Gondola at Waterfront Hotel in Lahug. Here, food is a celebration of life, especially when rich flavors, distinctly la dolce vita, start bursting in your mouth. For starters, have fresh salmon carpaccio with lemon vinaigrette, followed by Tuscar onion and bacon soup. Choose between black ink linguine with scallops on saffron sauce and beef tenderloin on broccoli frittata with porcini mushroom sauce and wood oven-roasted vegetables for your main course. Cap off the meal with fruit cannelloni with pistachio gelato and amaretto-flavored custard sauce. Of course, what is an Italian meal without the best vintage wine to complement the food and bring out its flavors? La Gondola is open for lunch and dinner.
After dinner, Cebu throbs with energy. The bars and restaurants pulsate with life, teeming with people who, though stylish and sophisticated, seem all set to let their hair down after a hard day’s work. Where is the best place to see and be seen? Shall we see you at The Village or at Crossroads? Or try Oleo, the watering hole whose sleek, ultra-modern interiors are perfect for chic cocktails or delightful dinners. Better yet, dance the night away at the most happening disco in town, Vudu, under whose spell Cebu’s night owls and partyphiles have been spending eternal nights for years.
CHARMING CEBUANOS
In this exciting landscape, you are sure to bump into some of finest personalities that make Cebu ever more fascinating. One of them is Arcy Gayatin, one of the foremost names in Cebu fashion, which, without a doubt, has produced many of the fresh, young, emerging talents in the industry, Monique Lhuillier and Kate Torralba included. Arcy knows style like the back of her hand. Merging form and functionality, her creations are for women who deserve to be looked at, admired, and treated special. Femininity in these edgy, no-rules-is-the-rule times is what Arcy Gayatin’s creations are all about. After all, her initials, AG, also stand for avant-garde. She has recently conquered Manila with the opening of her store at Market! Market! at Fort Bonifacio Global City. Now, wouldn’t you want to paint the town red in an AG?
But before you even venture away from Shangri-La’s Mactan Island Resort, make it a point to visit the bag shop of Joanna Lhuillier, an interior designer schooled in London. In 2001, she started her own business and now focuses on manufacturing fine quality handbags and fashion accessories. “My pieces are timeless; they are masterpieces,” says Joanna of her designs. “Every detail is sewn, so it’s durable. I get my inspirations everywhere, especially from flowers like roses.” A globetrotter, she makes it a point to visit Cebu every now and then to see how her bag shop is doing. Once she gets the sickness she calls “island fever,” then she is off to London or the United States.
Jay Aldeguer, president of the Aldeguer Group of Companies, has a new baby: Cebu TV, which has only recently been launched. “My main business is retailing, primarily Island Souvenirs. In the Philippines, there are up to 130 outlets already. We have a couple of stores in Okinawa, Japan, in Singapore, and one in San Francisco,” he says. “I also run the franchise of Cafe Adriatico in Cebu, located at Crossroads.” For Jay, Cebu is thriving, reaching new heights. “Cebu still has the perfect combination of metropolitan lifestyle and provincial feel to it,” he muses. “It is a nice combination of city living and country life. That’s perfect for me. I can go home for lunch and hit the beach in mid-afternoon. Sometimes, I can even drive up the mountains and have a pleasant view of the sunset.” Known as the “First Lady of Cebu,” Margot Osmena is a dynamic woman who has a big heart. More than just the wife of Cebu City Mayor Tomas Osmena, she is the “First Lady” Cebuanos love, having spearheaded many projects to improve the lives of the less fortunate. One of these projects is the mobile school, where kids learn what they would in an ordinary classroom, except that they are learning it on a bus moving from town to town to reach out to as many kids as can be taken for an enlightening ride. Despite her busy schedule, Margot always finds time to lend a helping hand to those in need. Another endeavor she has undertaken is the building of the Cebu City Operation: Second Chance Center in Barangay Kalunasan. It is the first and only place in the Philippines that can accommodate up to 200 minor offenders who need another chance. “It is by force of circumstance or mostly to survive that they are here,” says Margot. “They deserve a second chance. Putting them together with adult offenders will certainly not help them.” The P16-million building was built in collaboration with the provincial government, but Margot has been even more fortunate to have engaged the expertise and services of Cebu constructors and an architect free of charge. “Instead of looking like a jail, it looks like a dormitory. The teenagers moved here two years ago from the city jail. Here, they do various tasks like cooking and cleaning and activities like a sports festival. Moreover, their teachers are accredited by the Department of Education,” she beams.
Indeed, Cebu has more than the best of both worlds. In it you can let loose the many sides of you, confident that each one will find what it is looking for. Whether you are raring for adventure or yearning for languor, whether you wish to be away from or to be in the middle of life, in Cebu, you are always bound to do it in style.
CEBU AT A GLANCE
The province is part of the Central Visayas Region, situated 584 kilometers (365 miles) south of Manila. It is bounded on the east by the Camotes Sea, on the west by the Tanon Strait, on the north by the Visayan Sea, and on the southeast by the Bohol Strait.
Cebu, whose land area is 5,088 square kilometers, is a narrow strip of land approximately 220 kilometers long and forty-one kilometers at its widest. About 166 smaller islands and islets, of which Mactan, Bantayan, and Camotes are considered the largest, make up the main island of Cebu.
Predominantly hilly and mountainous, Cebu’s rugged mountain range starts from the southernmost town of Santander, reaching all the way to the town of Bogo, down to Medellin and Daan Bantayan in the north. Its highest peak, Mount Manunggal, is approximately 1,000 meters above sea level.
Its major attractions are the historic monuments and sites, like Magellan’s Cross, which marks the spot where Rajah Humabon and his followers were baptized in 1521.
Magellan’s Cross is housed in an octagonal shrine with a red-tiled roof that has paintings depicting the events of Magellan’s visit on the ceiling.
For a luxurious stay, the best is the grand Shangri-La’s Mactan Island Resort. For reservations, visit http://www.shangri-la.com.
Cebu is one hour and ten minutes away from Manila. Cebu Pacific flies seven times daily to and from Cebu.
Hector M. Reyes 